A Delica is the perfect machine to take full advantage of the winter months! However, getting all you can from your van through the cold winter months takes some key maintenance steps, and there are best practices, upgrades, and startup procedures if you want your Delica to perform at its best if you live in colder areas. Once these vehicles are on they’re ideal for the winter because the engines run cooler and have great all-road performance! A good place to start is to always check your fluids as your first step.
We broke your winter guide to Delicas into a few overarching categories: Pre-emptive general maintenance, basic practices, startup procedure, upgrades for the winter, and common issues you could encounter
PREEMPTIVE MAINTENANCE
To start off, make sure you’re switching your oil to 15w40 synthetic – this is the same grade you should have in all conditions – rather than conventional oil. You can get this done at most shops. If you’re in extreme conditions – below 0 degrees Fahrenheit – you’ll want to switch to 10w40 synthetic oil. In the winter time, switching to 10w40 will make it easier to start the van. If you switch to synthetic oil, make sure to stick with it regardless of the month or season.
Another general additive everyone should add, but especially in cold conditions, is cetane-booster (e.g. Diesel 911) to every tank throughout the winter by pouring the specified amount directly into your tank before filling it completely. This is an anti-gel fuel additive that increases your fuel efficiency.
It’s also important to check your fuel system to make sure it starts well in the cold. Here are a few major steps you can follow (image I)
With your vehicle off, check the fuel filter primer housing to make sure the plunger is firm. If the plunger is soft, there’s a leak in the fuel system that needs to be resolved before cold starts become easy. This leak could be caused by:
a loose clamp
cracked fuel line
an incorrectly installed fuel filter/water separator drain
primer housing itself could be faulty
injection pump connections or seals could be faulty
IMAGE I
Look for visible leaks or drips of fuel – if you find either, track down the source and assess the solution from there
Leaks in and around fuel injectors should be fixed, they can also lead to poor startups
It’s also essential to check the glow plug as it’s responsible for heating the fuel in the engine to start
Check the glowplug functionality with a multimeter
Establish if your glowplug requires 6 or 12 volts. Vehicles pre-mid 1993 typically have 6V plugs, while vehicles late 1993 & newer typically have 12V plugs
Check for functionality at the glowplug rail
Have a friend sit in the driver’s seat with the keys in the ‘off’ position as you stand next to the passenger side of the vehicle inside the engine bay with your multimeter
With the key switched to ‘on’, listen for the solenoid to click on (it’s a pretty discernable “thunk” or click)
Once the vehicle is on, check the voltage at the rail for the correct amount on your multimeter, based on the plug you have
If the solenoid does not click, check the functionality of your solenoids (above the air filter, behind the driver’s seat
If the solenoids turn on and off within 3 seconds, this could indicate that the ECM (electronic control module) could be faulty, at which point you’d need to install a manual glowplug with the correct solenoid
Check the resistance of the individual glowplugs from the upper-most point of the glowplug to the casing that threads into the cylinder head – the resistance should be 1ohm +- 0.2ohms on the multimeter (see image II)
IMAGE II
The ideal time for the solenoid to turn on in the startup process is 10 seconds in the winter!
Lastly, make sure to check all the electrical connections in the engine bay for corrosion. Clean any corrosion off thoroughly.
BASIC PRACTICES
First of all, if you have access to a garage, prioritize parking your van in the garage. If not, all good! Just make sure to let your van warmup prior to driving.
Make sure never to use starting fluid in your diesel intake. This can create larger issues, for example it can crack your cylinder head, by igniting too early. For your diesel engine, its best to let it warm up correctly – avoid starting fluid completely.
4-wheel drive is awesome in the winter, whether you’re navigating icy roads or setting tracks in snow. But you don’t want to get too extreme! With an L300, the max suggested highway speed is 80km/h (just under 50mph). To shift an L300 into 4WD, you want to fully stop, go into neutral, then shift to 4WD. Never shift into 4-wheel drive while an L300 is moving.
With an L400, you can go top speed in 4WD – 125km/h (75mph). You can shift into 4-wheel high going up to 25km/h in an L400, but we suggest not to: it’s easy to accidentally push the lever into center-lock diff mode, and that’s NOT good to do at speed. We suggest you still pull over to switch.
VEHICLE START-UP
Starting up your rig in the winter is pretty straight-forward in the winter once you have the van ready to go, but it’s good to know the general process.
When you’re turning the key into ‘on’ position, allow the glowplugs to fire to 10 seconds prior to cranking the key all the way on (this allows the starter to actually turn on. Note that the L300 could require multiple 10 second startup intervals before the engine actually turns on. This is normal. Pumping the throttle won’t do anything for the startup process, but having the throttle open ½ inch with a foothold is good for pre-1993 L300s and vehicles that are out of tune.
If you’re cranking the throttle, do so for no longer than 7 seconds upon startup so you don’t overheat the starter.
Once on and running, let the vehicle warm up for 10 minutes. If you have a temperature gauge, warm up until the coolant is at least 110 degrees Fahrenheit. If you don’t have a gauge, once the coolant temp on the stock dash is above the white line, you can drive it.
For automatic vehicles, if the vehicle is not above 160 degrees Fahrenheit it will not shift into 4th gear, so if you plan on jumping on the highway immediately, let it warm up for 15 minutes. An aftermarket gauge is recommended.
Upon correct startup, exhaust should be consistent and dark, as pictured in image III
IMAGE III
If the coolant temperature gauge doesn’t work, don’t drive your van!
UPGRADES
Block heater line/coolant heater: with this device, you can plug in overnight, and it keeps coolant at 100 degrees Fahrenheit so the van starts as if it’s summertime. This is ideal. As a pro tip, you can plug into a gas station’s coolant heater overnight if you’re traveling and want to camp out in the van.
Digital temperature gauge: this helps discern when your vehicle is ready to drive and make sure you’re at proper operating temps.
Momentary Glowplug switch: this enables you to turn your glowplugs on with your finger
Eberspacher Water Heater: this is a mobile diesel coolant heater; it’s best for things like a trip through Canada in the winter months. They are specific per size, whether you’re running gas or diesel, and more when you purchase
COMMON ISSUES
If you are having issues in the cold of winter, there’s some common things that could be occurring we’ve curated
Faulty glow plugs
Iced over fuel filter, or gelled up fuel filter from the cold
Leaking injection pump
Faulty injectors
Non-insulated fuel lines can be a major issue with cold (can be easily avoided with cetane booster)
Faulty primer housing
Faulty glowplug ECM
Low compression
It’s important to care for & prime you van for the winter months, and taking advantage of the performance and possibilities your Delica has to offer! If you have any questions, reach out to us directly through our site or if you want us to complete winter maintenance for your vehicle, fill out our maintenance form
Look out for our video on winter maintenance on your Youtube page coming next week! Happy trails